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In the Japanese bonsai tradition,
each bonsai must conform to a clearly defined style. There are more
than 100 recognized styles in bonsai, but most experts consider five
basic styles to be essential - formal upright, informal upright,
slanting, cascade, and semi-cascade.
After selecting a plant, examine it carefully and consider which design
seems most appropriate. Don't try to force a plant into a design that
does not meet its natural shape. And remember, enjoy yourself. You
don't have to follow any Japanese bonsai traditions if you don't want
to.
The following is only a guide to help you become familiar with various bonsai styles and their Japanese names.
Formal Upright (Chokkan)
A bonsai tree trained in the formal upright style mimics the growth of
a tree under perfect natural conditions. It should be balanced, but not
perfectly symmetrical. The trunk should have an obvious taper, with the
widest point at the bottom. Formal upright style is considered the
easiest for the novice bonsai grower.
The best species for training in the formal upright style are larches,
junipers, pines, and spruces because of their naturally tapered shape.
Plants in the formal upright style look best in oval or rectangular
containers. Do not center the plant when placing it in the container.
Informal Upright (Moyogi)
Less strict than the formal upright, this form is the most commonly
seen in nature. The trunk can twist, turn, and change direction as it
would in nature based on the environment. They can grow away from the
wind or upwards towards the sunlight.
Most species of sturdy plants are suitable for training in this style, but the most popular are maples.
Slanting (Shakan)
The trunk slants in one direction, and the roots often are larger on
the opposite side to provide balance. Think of a tree that is reaching
to one side for sunlight. Some bonsai trees that have been trained to
slant look as if they will fall over because of the angle at which they
lean.
Most species are suitable for this style, but the most popular are conifers.
Cascade (Kengai)
This design mimics the growth of a tree on the side of a mountain. In
this style, the tree's growing tip extends below the base of its
container. The natural tendency for trees is to grow upwards so it can
be very difficult to encourage vigor in a bonsai that is forced to grow
downwards. Cascades style is not recommended for beginners.
Many species of plants will adapt to cascade training, as long as they
are not strongly upright naturally. Juniper is a favorite for training
in the cascade styles.
Semi-Cascade (Hankengai)
Similar to the cascade style, semi-cascade refers to a tree whose
lowest point of the trunk must be below the rim of the pot, but not its
base.
Many species of plants will adapt to cascade training, as long as they
are not strongly upright naturally. Junipers, and flowering plants such
as wisteria and jasmine as favorites for semi-cascade.
Windswept (Fukinagashi)
This style simulates the effect of sustained exposure to strong winds.
In this design, each of the branches appears to be "swept" to one side,
as if being blown by a strong wind or having large portions of foliage
and branches stripped by envirnomental conditions. These trees are
modelled on trees usually found in coastal areas, where strong
envirnomental forces have shaped and sculpted them for years.
Literati Style (Bunjin)
This style is the most unconventional of them all. Bunjin often have
long thin trunks which curve back around toward the front at the top,
displaying the tree's foliage in a cascading form. It is not uncommon
to see Japanese Red Pines shaped in this style. This style technically
"breaks the rules" in a number of ways, but also imitate trees in
nature that have been forced to contort themselves to survive. Often
the result of adverse conditions, bunjin show us how nature itself
"breaks the rules" in order to survive, not infequently with astounding
grace and beauty.